The next step in the beam re-do process was to replace the ball joints. Now I can't take credit for this trick to remove ball joints without any special tools (except for a welder!) but I will pass it along for anyone who is in need of ball joint replacement.
The first thing to do is block up the torsion arm, on some good solid steel supports so the threaded end is pointing up.
Next, you need to smack the threaded end with a serious hammer a few times. This will "blow" the ball/bolt piece right through the cap side of the joint. This will require several blows, but it will pop through with enough persuasion. Sometimes you will need to cut the threaded end of the ball off to keep it from tipping over when you hit it. Just leave a 1/2" or so sticking up so you can beat it through the other side.
There is a plastic liner inside the joint, this will need to be dug out. Now using your welder lay a bead of weld inside the old bearing surface of the old ball joint. This will temporarily swell the bearing race and break the rust loose.
Set it aside and let it cool to room temperature. Now prop the arm up on the steel block again and insert a nice piece of rod or steel to pound on. At this point, the old ball joint will pound right out with only a ball peen hammer.
Nothing to it. No need to buy special tools, or to have a shop press them out for you. I have seen people beat the crap out of these arms to get the bearings out. No need for that, it will pop right out with this trick. Hope this helps someone along the way.
Note:
When you reinstall the new joints, wake sure you align the notches on the new ball joints so they are oriented fore and aft to the car. Three of the four ball joints in this particular car were installed incorrectly. (Off Axis.) This created a premature joint failure and a terrible bind in the steering.
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